Backing up a bit to Friday, the 12th. We pulled into Paris KY after a good 74 mile ride from Vanceburg. Our first impression of Kentucky highways was a bit off the mark. We rode on routes 10, 9, US bicycle route 21 and US 68, with side routes on parallel local roads when that made sense. “Sense” meaning that the side roads didn’t unnecessarily take us up (a) steep climb(s) just to avoid the highway. Most of the highways had good shoulders – 8 ft with 18″ rumble strips. There was a section of 68 where the shoulders inexplicably narrowed into nothing BUT a rumble strip. After a close encounter, we pulled off and re-routed. Dana had a deja vu-back to her cross country trip through the southern KY mountains. Up-down-up-repeat ad infinitum. Even with the hills and the highway changes, the day’s weather was excellent, and the scenery amazing. I should be taking more pictures! It’s a bit hard to manage sometimes when there is a great scene, but you have the handlebars clenched tight, and the moment is gone except in your mind’s eye.
We got into Paris around 6 and did a loop around town and found a little street festival going on with multiple acts that were on until 10. We got this info from officer Dan who was blocking the street and generally guarding the area. He pointed us to the local pubs and said he’d watch our bikes. Sweet small town America. We made our way to the Rose and Thorn & ordered a couple of beers. A quick glance around the place and we knew we picked correctly. Pictures of Freda Kahlo, Maya Angelou, and RBG were on the walls along with a sign that everyone was welcome. We met Ricky, one of the owners and the bartender-wait-staff-and-keg-hauler all in one. Her business partner Sally was the cook, and the Spinach Nachos we’re heavenly. Lots of other great choices too for carni, omni, or veggie vours.
While sitting at the bar we met Dennis, Lori, Mark, Michael with his dog, Willy, John & Denise.
We did eventually have to leave, because it was starting to get dark and we had parks to scout. Officer Dan had told us that we wouldn’t be bothered if we camped in the parks, but though we found gazebos and shelters, we didn’t find any power which is a bad thing when you are so dependent on electronic devices. But we are. And I forgot my fast charger.
After striking out of the parks, we checked out a local hotel but it wasn’t that great, and the Best Western was a bit of a haul. I was in a bit of a bad mood as all the devices were getting low, and we went back to the bar so I could wash off a bit ( Dana had done that already ) & literally and figuratively cool down. Back at the bar our new friends asked if we had found a place to stay and we said no. Denise & John then called a friend of theirs, Ralph, who owns a campground called Captain Tuttles (and the building we were in). We stayed a little longer then headed to the camp. We set up on a platform near Stoner Creek to a full moon. It was a chilly night – supposed to be going down to 53 – but neither of us wanted to unpack our sleeping bags, so we just used our bag liners and silks. About 4:00 in the morning we both realized that wasn’t enough and opened one of those sleeping bags and had a much more restful 4 hours of sleep from that.
In the morning, we set everything up to dry off once the sun hit and headed into town for coffee at Lil’s, a cool little cafe with a bar straight from the old five and dimes. In fact it was an old JJ Newberry store with the counter and stools still intact. We had some coffee and breakfast and headed back to our dried clothes and tent, packed up and headed to Lexington. More about that in the next blog
I can’t express enough what an immense pleasure it was meeting you all!! I still regret not thinking to invite you to stay with me. So if you’re ever this way again, I hope you’ll let me make it up to you!
Safe travels and enjoy your journey!
I can’t tell you how much I’m enjoying these posts, Paul and Dana! It could totally turn into a book – but that seems like a lot of work! All is well on The Avenue! We miss you terribly, but feel like we’re right there with you on your ride!