August 7, 2022 on

Day 44 – Whales!

Don’t remember where I left off, but I do have some name and other corrections. Nick is actually Luke and he hails from Northern England, near the Scottish border. “The German Guy” is Harald, but when I asked him his name, he said his middle name was Nicholas and that it was easier to pronounce and remember. Probably where I got the “Nick.”

Another day on the Oregon coast. Sensational views at almost every turn of the road. I’ve stopped so often to either snap a pic or just gawk that it drags out my rides and fills the day nicely.

I’m at the Beachside State Recreation Area Hiker-Biker camp. Not quite up to the standards of the other camps — no charging stations, a couple of food lockers and no cell service. There are four of the group I met two days ago, Hendrika, Luke, Harald, and myself, and a new guy John. It’s been nice pulling in to camp and seeing friendly faces and a new one here or there. Sybill took some rest days in a hotel back in Lincoln City, and Doug didn’t show up today and probably went longer or shorter. No one knows.

Beachside is truly that, however. The almost deserted beach is about 20 yds from my tent. Luke is the official fire-maker, and he made a roaring one in Hendrika’s fire ring (none allowed on the beach here) and we sat around drinking beer and a little whiskey and telling stories of the road. Just before bed, Luke took us out to the beach to stargaze and pointed out the faint blotch that is the Andromeda galaxy among other things. It was a completely clear night so the view of the sky was unobstructed, and other than some light pollution from the condos about a mile away, completely dark.

Earlier in the day, I was climbing a hill that was one-way with a semi-protected bike lane. Nice gentle grade the whole way up and at the top was the Cape Foulweather lookout. A number of people with binoculars were whale watching and I actually caught a glimpse of a whale’s back, it’s fin when it dived and a number of spouts. Later at another lookout, I saw another. First time for everything. Hope to see a big whale breaching somewhere on this trip.
All for now, the group is gathering at the Umpqua Lighthouse camp tonight. I don’t quite know exactly where that is, but will get location from Luke before he takes off.


  1. Sarah Rito

    Beautiful coastline pics!
    And friendly faces? And whales? Sounds like the start of a good leg ; )

    • parkrat

      The views are astounding, and the friendly faces are both a comfort and incentive to keep camping when some nights I’m thinking, “A dry morning would be nice!” 😉

  2. Hugh Mose

    Hi, Paul! Janyce and I just returned yesterday afternoon from a week’s auto trip to Michigan, with lots of sightseeing out and back. I have now caught up on your adventures, and I’m so envious of you. Having lived in the Pacific NW, I am familar with Portland, Astoria and the Oregon Coast. It’s a beautiful part of the country. Enjoy every moment, but continue to stay safe.

    • parkrat

      Will do! There is a bike route, but sometimes it’s a bit hairy. Two more days and I’ll be in CA.

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