The Dakotas – Day 44 – White River Angels

76 miles cycling, 3348′ of climbing (2311.1 tot) – to read from the beginning, click here.

Rough day. 72 miles from Interior to White River with hills and headwinds. I knew this was going to be a long day from the start, but the hills were tough and the winds in the morning were light so not so bad but got worse in the afternoon when you’re most tired. Interestingly, the Badlands don’t end in interior. The same sandy buttes and cliffs were present for many miles along South Dakota 44. Best part of the trip was that traffic was extremely light. We probably were passed by fewer than 150 cars in both directions over seven hours. When we finally arrived in White River, we were ready for a drink!

Dana arrive first as usual, and was chatting with Glenn, a high school teacher, tired but still teaching shop. Next to us was Shirley, a Native American who made a negative comment about the current administration and we connected with her immediately. We talked with her about the troubles of the native American tribes and their concerns that even though they’re American citizens, that ICE May pick them up at any time and send them overseas, because of their color. So they are very careful when they leave the reservation. On the lighter note, she showed us pictures of her 14-year-old granddaughter who was a rodeo champion and wrestler in high school. Very accomplished young lady.

We had planned to stay White River City campground, and Dana had gone to check it out. I was sitting outside with my bike with a family came past on their way to watch the local football team on the bar TV, and Bob and Ben stopped to ask where we were going and where we were from. I told the short version of the story and they said wow, amazing. Bob offered that they had asked the city to improve the facilities at the campground as they were only vault toilets, no showers, and no electricity. They then went into the bar. In about 2 minutes, Bob came back out and said that he and his wife were offering a shower at their house, and I said that would be great. Bob said come in when you’re ready and we’ll head out.

When Dana got back, I took her in to meet Bob, Carla, their daughter Anita and her husband Ben. I left to go set up the tent and put it in the pavilion in the park next to the campground since we were expecting rain that night (there was only one camper in the campground and there was no sign of life there). I went back to the bar and the game was over and Bob et al led us back to their house, but before we left they pre-apologized for the state of the house since they were in the middle of remodeling while they prepared Bob’s family house for he and Carla to move back to White River to care for Carla’s mom, including Anita telling us that there was a body outline on the kitchen floor layout. We answered that, “We sleep on the ground! Anything will be better than that!”

We got to the house and Dana went in to take her shower. Bob then asked if we’d like to just pitch the tent in their backyard. “Yes!” and “Hell Yes!” I started to get my bike to get the tent when Ben offered to drive me there. When we got to the pavilion, there was an older model car sitting there with the lights on and engine running. Ben flashed his lights and we got out and that car took off. We both suspected they were about to rip off the tent (and my sleeping bag dry bag that I tossed in to weigh it down). Phew. Glad we didn’t need to spend the night there.

Back at the house, I set up the tent and got a shower and then we were offered cocktails and had a nice time exchanging stories between our profusely thanking Bob and Carla for giving us a safe space. While chatting, we learned that Carla’s sister and brother-in-law lived in Chesapeake Beach MD where our friend Charlie lives, and that Carla performed at folk festivals in FL and I asked if she knew Mindy Simmons, a performer from FL who had performed twice at the Acoustic Brew and who I did a live radio session with when I was a folk DJ at WPSU. Yes, she knew her and she sang with her, and sadly reported that she had passed from cancer. Awww. ;( Anyway, we reflected on how small the world was given that meeting random folks in White River SD had those other connections.

We eventually said good night and crawled into the tent for a good night’s sleep.