I am a bit sore this morning. All the little bruises that weren't noticed yesterday made themselves known. Injuries to date: Strained right knee, deep contusion on right gluteus maximus, contusions on my left and right quadriceps, and a little twinge in my back. Hmmmm. The bike and the trailer appear for all intents and purposes to be unscathed. Curse them! 😉

At this point, I'm waiting and seeing and keeping ice on the knee, and tomorrow I'll see if it seems alright to continue.

Anyway, I'm still officially travelling. I got a few questions from some of you about what happened to Chris and who Eric is (BTW, you can drop me a line at –

):

Chris left on Friday to return to the Denver airport & fly home. I would not be this far without his great help getting through South Dakota.

Eric is Eric Hanlon. We worked together in the mid-90s at a company called Roadware in Kylertown, PA. After Roadware pulled their operations back to Canada, I went independent, and Eric moved to Minnesota to work at the Mayo Clinic. His wife Wanda is originally from MN, and they live here with their three adorable children, Zach, Hannah, & Sam.

So, after Eric's dramatic rescuing of me from the McDonald's in Owatonna (well, not dramatic, but I'm just trying to spice things up), we went back to their place, I cleaned up a bit and we went to their neighbors for a gourmet dinner, replete with fireworks. What a treat! It was hard to feel sorry for myself with such great company and wonderful food. And a little libation helped to ease the pain, too. Eric & Wanda are so nice, I feel blessed that if I was to have an accident, that I was close enough to end up here. They are taking good care of me.

Slept very well last night – a good sign that the injuries are not too serious. Like I said, I'll see what tomorrow brings and maybe head to the local clinic just to get checked out. At the least, it's going to be uncomfortable for a few days. At worst I might have to postpone finishing. And all possibilities in between. We shall see. 😉

Not to worry, it was relatively minor – details below.

Darfur to Owatonna, MN 92 miles.

First, unfinished story: I forgot to tell you that I pitched my tent in the Darfur American Legion Park, two blocks from the lounge. Just me & 6,000 mosquitos & a cool little owl using the pavilion as a base.

Had a restless night since it stayed hot & my body still hadn't stopped peddling, & I only got to rinse off using the park fountain.

My mapping/timing mistakes yesterday really cost me today, & fatigue & the heat didn't help. By 2 pm, it was clear I wasn't going to make the Hanlons' without motor vehicle assistance (i.e. a ride).

I called Eric – I would ride for two more hours & he'd pick me up. Then, just as I crossed the city limits, I was going to make a pit stop at McD's. When I turned to cross the highway, my wheel caught on the lip of the shoulder & I was sent sprawling into the traffic lane. There were no cars coming (I looked 1st), & a nice lady who saw me fall pulled up behind me & put her flashers on & stayed until I got off the highway & got myself together.

Jake & BOB are fine. I bruised my right butt cheek & its very hard. My right knee also took a beating. I was OK enough to ride over to McD's & then, minus BOB, to walmart for instant ice packs & an ace wrap.

I'm sitting at McD's with half my bottom on one ice pack & another on my knee & Eric just pulled in.

Updates later. I'm OK, just sore & not quite so charmed.

Well, the adventure begins. I got a late start today – purposefully – as Chris was leaving & I was feeling tired after doing 410 miles in 4 days through the SD heat & wind.

I felt charmed. For the first time all week, I had a tailwind, & without Chris, & with the BOB in tow, that made for a much easier day. The terrain of western MN is much gentler, too.

I did, however, make two misjudgements: the distance I needed to cover, & the "ruralness" of this part of MN.

I had planned on going to Madelia, & after a nice, but too long lunch stop in Slayton (a real roast beef sandwich – no lunch meat & $2.50), I realized I'd really have to move to make Madelia. And I did – with the tailwind & flat roads I was doing 18 mph.

But by 8pm with the sun sinking, almost out of water & no food but trail bars, I knew I wasn't going to make it. & after Slayton, services had dried up.

From my maps & pocket database, I knew I could go south about 10 miles & find food. No, I had to be stubborn & kept plodding on. At a little crossroads called Darfur, I saw a sign for the Darfur Lounge – Open 7 days a week, 365 days a year, on the ground, leaning against a building. I followed the directions, & sure enough, there it was.

I went in with the idea of getting my water bottles filled & using the john & getting on my way. I sat down at the bar beside an older man & couldn't resist the call of the cold beer. I asked Pat, the farmer I sat beside, lots of questions about directions & he filled my ear with observations about farming 300 acres of corn & soybeans at 77 because the meds he & his wife needed cost $1000 a month & that was just about all they got from Social Security.

The bartender & various other patrons would come over occasionally to ask about my trip. Pat's wife Shirley came over to take him home & we got to talking about my trip & she gave me $5 for The 2nd Mile & she's gonna pray for me, too!

B0NUS! It was friday happy hours & there were free sloppy joes, so for 6 bucks I had 3 beers, 4 joes, 4 full water bottles & a priceless experience.

G'nite. Long day tomorrow & I'm very tired.

But I still feel charmed.

The Corn Palace — the facade is covered in corn of various colors.

The yellow hills of the Badlands, SD.

Chris and I in the Badlands.

The Pig Dig in the badlands.

The Longhorn Saloon, Scenic, SD.

Just some things I didn't get to in the last post.
If you are ever in Pipestone or I-90 in western MN, it's worth the side trip here just to eat at Lange's Cafe. What a menu & selection of baked goods – pie to die for.

It's funny how different things become just crossing a state border. The road maintenance changes of course – SD had better shoulders but MN does a much better job on the cracks — and so far, NO CHIP SEAL!! ;). Anyway, Chris & I both independently observed that MN is much neater (in the clean & tidy sense) than SD by far.

And much more populous. I won't be lacking somewhere to stop (I hope I'm not speaking prematurely).

There's a national park here at a quarry of soft red stone which the Indians carved into pipes & traded all over the country. I did a quick tour just to see what it's all about. Also, every August you can come here for the annual Hiawatha pagent, where they put the play "Song of Hiawatha" on.

Well, Chris is leaving today – after brunch he's heading west to catch a plane & I'm going east. ;( I spent a good part of the morning packing things to send back & getting only the essentials in the BOB.

I hope to be at the Hanlon's tomorrow.

Mitchell, SD to Pipestone, MN 93 miles

5 states down, 15 to go. Just over 2000 miles so far.

Today was pretty routine. Sun, sunscreen, wind, riding, and more riding. Really wanted to get SD out of the way. Rode from Mitchell to Sioux Falls, and we stopped at Harlan's Bike & Tour to have my bike checked out — have a funny random clicking going on and it's driving me nuts. The noise is still there, but at least I know it's safe. Also, I bought a spare BOB axle, just in case. Estelle, one of the staff on the Cycle America tour insisted I have one. Also, had to buy a new flag.

Have to run. The library I'm writing this at is closing. More later.

This won't be a complete post since I haven't finished riding for the day, but I thought I'd write while I had access to a computer.

“It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” ~ Ernest Hemingway

I'm in Wessington Springs, S.D. Started early today in Presho and have come 89 miles, and am now well over the halfway point in mileage. Chris is going to execute a Hyperspace Jump* for me and we'll end up in Mitchell, SD, so we can see the Corn Palace. After that, I plan to ride 20 or so more miles and call it a day. Minnesota is getting closer.

By the way, I forgot to note yesterday that I entered the Central time zone. Wasn't even thinking about it, but Chris saw the sign. Could've really used that hour of sleep that I lost, though.

I'll update again when we have a place for the night.

*- The Hyperspace Jump is a cool North-South move that saves or uses no mileage. It was used once before in jumping from RT 44 to the Badlands Scenic Loop (though that one did cost me an extra 9 miles, it was well worth it). I will certainly miss the Hyperspace Jumps when Chris leaves on Friday.

Presho to Mitchell, SD 111 miles

Forgot to relate in my earlier post that I crossed the Missouri River this morning, 1000 mi after I first did that in Montana.

After the hyperjump from Rt 34 to old US 16, I added 22 more miles & we ended up in Mitchell, home of the Corn Palace, a building which, while garrish enough already, is redecorated every year with frescos made with 11 shades of corn. An auditorium-basketball court-all purpose building where one could buy every manner of corn-related merchandise ever made.

After an excellent Mexican dinner, we restocked supplies & I spent the night washing my clothes & mending my favorite cyclin' shorts.

I'm only 75 miles from MN, again thanks to Chris' superb sag work, & should make it there tomorrow.

Cactus Flats to Presho, SD 98 miles.

As much as yesterday was a vacation wonderland, today was a slogging workday. My goal was to make it 120 miles to Reliance, but after fighting energy-sapping headwinds on bottom-bashing, speed-sucking chip-sealed roads all day, I threw in the towel 22 miles short of my goal. Still, 98 miles was good progress, and I'm way ahead of where I would have been without Chris' help. If everything works out, I might be out of SD by Friday.

Today wasn't without it's high point, though. We stopped for lunch in Murdo at the Pioneer Auto Museum. This complex was almost as big as the Wall Drug store, but was full of not only antique cars, but bicycles, farm machines, motorcycles, whole schoolhouses & train stations — almost anything old, it was there.

Tomorrow, I'm going to try to knock off half of what's left of South Dakota. That's the goal, anyway.

Rapid City to Cactus Flats 101 miles

Imagine "Mongo" from "Blazing Saddles" growling out the subject line.

Today's ride was wonderful & jam packed with things to talk about. I took lightly travelled route 44 instead of riding on the Interstate, thanks to Chris' sag support. Gently rolling hills on either side of me, & only rarely did the road go over one.

Chris met me in the little wayside town of Scenic. 4, maybe 5 buildings, most of them with 'Longhorn' in their name, decorated with many skulls of long-dead cows. There was the Longhorn Food & Fuel, the Longhorn Saloon, & the Longhorn Emporium. I had a very refreshing grape popsicle at the Food & Fuel, waiting in line as three obviously inebriated Native Americans were trying to figure out how to pool their cash to pay for their gas & a bottle of whiskey (It was about 10 AM). Not a pretty sight.

One of my concerns about riding through reservations in SD was the high rate of alcoholism among the men, and the fact that they drive in that state. One of the three, Harold, very obviously & purposefully stayed behind to talk to Chris & me & eventually asked for a handout. When nothing was forthcoming from us, he quickly moved on to a carload of people getting gas.

After Scenic, the landscape quickly changed, becoming more sandy & barren — I had entered the Badlands, a beautiful & strange landscape of multi-colored layered rock & thick mineral-laden streams. A giant 'Silly Sand' sculpture.

Chris met me at mile 70 & sagged (transport by car) me over the 9 mi gravel road into the national park, where we got to see the 'Pig Dig,' an active archeological site where four paleontologists were busy digging through the earth with brushes & small metal picks (like your dentist uses). In 20 years since some tourists stumbled upon a fossil here,they have unearthed an about 20 x 10 patch & over 13,000 bones of all sorts of creatures who used this ancient watering hole.

We decided after the pig dig to head into Wall at the eastern end of the Badlands scenic loop, but it took us quite a while to get there as there were so many cool 'viewpoints' to stop at and gawk at nature's wonders, including a small buffalo herd & prairie dogs.

Wall is the home of Wall Drugs, a block-long americana wonderland of free ice water, 5 cent coffee, chintzy souvenirs,& cheesy tourist attractions (like a hugh plastic T-Rex that growls every 12 minutes). We had buffalo burgers at the cafe & wandered around for a while amazed at the shear excess of it all.

After our later than planned lunch, we headed back to the badlands loop so I could finish my ride. 30 miles later, I had a century in & we parked ourselves at the Circle 10 campground/Motel in Cactus Flats, ready for a good sleep.