Category: X-C 2005 (Page 3 of 8)

I'm resting nicely at my sister Jean's. I'm eating, sleeping and drinking like a king, thanks to hers and Mark's hospitality. Mark's cousin and his family are also here and last night we had a scrumptious dinner complete with an early birthday cake for me. Tonight we're going to a Toledo Mudhen's game, and early tomorrow, I'm on the road again.

Here's the plan for the next week:
Sun, Jul 31: Leave Maumee to Wellington, OH ~100 miles.
Mon, Aug 1: Wellington to Paris, OH ~ 75 miles.
Tue, Aug 2: Paris, OH to McDonald, PA ~ 85 miles.
Wed, Aug 3: McDonald to Ohiopyle, PA ~ 75 miles
Thu, Aug 4: Ohiopyle to Cumberland, MD ~ 74 miles.
Fri, Aug 5: Cumberland to Fort Frederick State Park, ~ 70 miles.
Sat, Aug 6: FFSP to Tuscarora/Gaithersburg, ~ 88 miles.
Sun, Aug 7: Gaithersburg to Annapolis, ~ 80 miles.
Mon, Aug 8: Annapolis to Bethany Beach, ~ 90 miles.

This is a pretty aggressive schedule, especially making 80+ miles on those trails, and counting on clear weather, it will defintely be adjusted as I go. I'm getting to the point where being done is job 1.

7/28/05 Monroeville, IN to Maumee, OH 96 miles

Today was the flattest ride I've done on the tour so far — only 210 feet up. I heard Western Ohio was still part of the plains, but this was great. Especially since I underestimated the mileage by about 10 miles which made for a long day.

I tried to get started early. Got up at 6:30 and started packing and had almost decided that I would ride to breakfast when the route took me right past the bar I had eaten in last night. They were open for breakfast, too, so I went in and plopped at the bar. It took a whole 40 minutes to get 2 pancakes & sausage, but in some ways it was worth the wait. The pancakes were hugh — glad I only ordered 2 — and the sausage was about an inch thick and as big as a t-bone steak. No wonder it took so long to cook. While filling, the extra time again got me off to a late start and I wasn't out of Monroeville until 8:45.

There's not much to say about the route today except that it was flat and that Ohio corn and soybean fields look very much like every other state's. I did stop for lunch in Defiance, OH and got a short history of it's role in the French & Indian wars and saw a marker for Pontiac's birthplace and another marker for Johnny Appleseed's first orchard. After Definance, I rode mostly along the Maumee River road, though the river was very muddy from the recent rains.

I arrived at Jean's & Mark's around 6:30, ready to be off the bike for a couple of days. I was treated to a wonderful meal, excellent libations, and slept in a wonderfully soft bed, feeling fully lubricated. (Have I used the Waldorf-Astoria analogy yet?).

7/27/05 Peru, IN to Monroeville, IN 80 miles

As I said in my post yesterday, my legs are tired and sore & a north wind didn't help. So, today was a slow day after a very late start. I left Peru at noon with the goal of making it to Ohio. Mostly, I stayed on US 24, but later in the day I returned to the Adventure Cycling route, passing through Huntingdon (birthplace of Dan Quayle — oh, and I forgot to mention that I went through Dixon, IL, birthplace of Ronald Regan — I didn't stop at their respective libraries), and Zanesville, where I had a steakburger at a little pizza shop where they had slips from all the through cyclists under the counter glass (mine's there now, too).

I made it within 3 miles of the border, anyway. The description in my Adventure Cycling maps of Monroeville, IN sounded too good: Camping shelter in city park for cyclists — showers, laundry, and best of all FREE. If Iroquois, IL is the Motel 6 of cyclist-friendly towns, then this place is the Crowne Plaza. Not only did they have all of the above, but a full kitchen, cots, and enough room for 20 people. There was another couple there — in their late 60's from South Carolina on their way to Ohio to visit their daughter. The place was big enough that we both had our own areas. They went to bed and I went out to find something to eat. I went to a local bar, "Pour Boys" and had a chef's salad, fries, a beer, and a good dose of 60's country music: Johnny Cash, Waylon Jennings, etc. Like a time warp.

Anyway, if you're cross-country cycling — Monroeville, IN should be on your itinerary.

It's Day 40 when I'm writing this from Payne, OH, and I've just crossed into the Eastern time zone (so I lost another hour), and I've also crossed off 2800 miles. I have about 800 or so left according to the rest of my maps, so I'll fall a little short of 3700, but I'm not worrying about that too much. Next missive should be from my sister Jean's in Maumee, OH.

Iroquois, IL to Peru, IN 100 miles.

Well, after yesterday's post I headed on to Logansport where the signage was extremely confusing and I got caught up for about 1/2 hour. While getting my bearings using maps at a convenience store, it started pouring rain. That lasted for about 5 minutes and within another 5 minutes, the streets were dry. I headed on towards a campground in Peru, about 15 miles away.
Never made it. Halfway there it started raining in earnest, complete with much lightning. I took shelter under the eaves at someone's house and waited for about 15 minutes. The immediate storm passed and I continued on, though it was still raining. After three days of record heat, and as the temps were still in the high 80s, the rain actually was refreshing.

As I approached within 4 miles of Peru, the heavens opened and the storm resumed, a deluge this time. I waited under a bridge for a few minutes and when it seemed that it was now or never, I went on the last two miles into Peru. The rain was really pelting now and the lightning became more frequent, so when I saw the MOTEL sign ahead, I made straight for it.

Turns out the county I was in had a severe thunderstorm warning and two counties southward had tornado warnings. After I got settled in the room, the storm really picked up — I had made it through what could only be called the "best" part of the storm. I walked across the street to a chinese restaurant and had dinner while watching the lightning flashing every few seconds. The lights in the restaurant flashed a lot, but to the credit of the power company, they only went out once for about 30 seconds and came back on within another 30. Guess they know how to deal with lightning out here.

Anyway, my legs are in no rush to get moving today, even though it's beautifully clear and cool out. I'm sore & tired after two big mileage days in the heat and the excitement and frantic pedalling last night. I'm heading to the Ohio border today, and should make to my sister's on Thursday. Friday will be a long-needed day off.

Streator, IL to Iroquois, IL 103 miles.

Well, I didn't make it to Rensselaer, but I did make it to Iroquois, IL. This is about the friendliest-to-bike-passers-through town I've been in.

The Adventure Cycling maps I'm using said I could camp in the park, but to call the mayor. I tried, but my cell phone wasn't working in that area, so I just went to the Iroquois Cafe and had a few beers. The bartender was very busy as she was both tending bar and handling 5 full tables without a cook, so I didn't get a lot of info out of her. I left the bar and was going to pitch my tent in the park, but first I stopped at the local store. The clerk asked me if I was staying in the park and if someone had opened the shower room for me. "Well, no — I tried to call the number, but couldn't." So he called Dennis, the shower contact. And when his phone didn't answer, he called Dennis' father with the same results, and then Dennis' son, and again no answer. I was resigned to sleeping in the park with just a quick, cold wash off.

I started to leave and asked the clerk where the Post Office was and what time it opened. He said it was a block away, but that he didn't know when it opened. So, I went back to the bar and got my bike and didn't walk five steps when the guy in the house next to the bar asked me if I was staying in the park and whether I would like the showers opened. "Sure. That'd be great." Turns out the "Dennises" were out of town and Gary was taking care of the park duties for them.

It also turns out that the shower is actually in a little building, half of which is a garage, and the other half a conference room/office. Gary said I could just stay in there if I wanted, which of course I did since it was still 90 at 8:30 PM and the conference room had an air conditioner. (I'm getting so spoiled with all the cool air nights.)

I took a shower, made some phone calls, and headed back to the bar. It was empty, save the bartender. I had another beer or two and we chatted about all the cyclists that come through that town (thanks to Adv. Cycling's maps), my bike trip and her kayaking/canoeing. I went back to the bed with a little buzz, but I had a great rest and decided not to start too early on Day 38 as I wanted to get some postcards mailed and rest my legs a bit.

In the morning, I had breakfast at the Iroquois which serves as the both the local breakfast, lunch and dinner place, and the bar. I made a quick run to Sheldon where the bartender assured me I could get Illinois postcards (I had been looking for them all the previous day and even took an 8 mile detour. It seems tourism is not a big deal in East Central IL).

And then I saw Gary again, and asked him if the way I was going into Indiana had a "Welcome to Indiana" sign. He didn't think so, but that if I went south back to Sheldon and took US 24, there was one there. I head back to Sheldon and east on 24 with a wonderful 15 mph tailwind coming directly out of the west. While there wasn't any sign save for a little "Entering this county, leaving Illinois", the road was so good and I was going so fast that I decided to stay on the route and head straight for Fort Wayne/Monroeville on this road.

While the shoulders have narrowed from 3 to 2 to .5 ft, I'm still making good time and hope to cut a big chunk out of Indiana today. More later.

Polo, IL to Streator, IL 88 miles.

Hi Temp on my bike Thermometer: 105. 90 by 9 AM and 100 by 11.

The plains are so much easier than the rolling hills I've been dealing with the last 3 days. I started off at 6 this morning and it was still under 80. The bike path turned out to be just dirt so I used US 52 which on Sunday morning was empty, and compared to the bike path and the county roads, a dream, as I was able to find services almost every 5-10 miles. And in this heat, I had to get ice and water at every stop. I faired well, though, keeping hydrated, sunscreened and moving — stopping only served to intensify the heat. As long as I was moving, I actually stayed pretty cool. The wind was more cooperative today, too, as was the terrain and I finished up by 3:30. This will be the first time since leaving the Hanlons that I've gotten more than 11 hours of rest after the riding day.

Streator, like many of the towns here, doesn't really have a claim to fame. A nice old downtown which I saw on the wsy out. I did stay in a hotel, though. The thought of camping out in 90+ weather with no "official" campground with shower facilities anywhere nearby helped with that decision. I got some epsom salts and soaked my knee and rear and that felt good and got a long, cool summer's nap.

Streator, IL to currently Watseka, IL — 87 miles.

Another hot one. Corn to the left of me, soybeans to the right… (here I am, stuck in the middle…) 😉

Trying to reach Indiana today, Renssalaer, to be exact. That will be a bit of a stretch, but I'm feeling good and have just spent some time at the library cooling down. Will update you on that progress as soon as I can.

Transcript  Hey, it's Paul, unable to get to the Internet today, but it's Sunday July 24th and I did 88 miles today from Polo, IL to Streator IL. So I'm sitting here. I got a hotel room that would be cool 'cause it's about 106 out there right now. But doing OK. Actually, had a good day and now have, for the first time, like more than 12 hours to rest in quite a while so. I'll try to get an Internet post up there as soon as possible. Talk to you later. 

Bloomington, WI to Warren, IL 75 miles

A nice day. Started off with breakfast at Ma's Bakery in Bloomington, WI as I noted in my earlier post. Headed to Lancaster, Platteville & Shullberg. In Platteville, I took a short break at a convenience store, & while looking over my maps, a man asked me if I needed help with bike routes. "Sure," I said, "any help I can get." He then said he was planning to go out for a ride & offered to ride along if I wanted himto. "Double sure."

While Tony went to change & get his bike, I had a quick lunch. When he returned, I was treated to an excellent guided tour thru the backroads that only local cyclists know. Tony teaches math @ the local college & it was great riding & talking with him. We covered about 3/4 of the distance to Shullsburg & parted ways after exchanging cards. We snapped a pic & in answer to Tony's question about flats, I told him, "Only 2 -1 on Jake & 1 on BOB.

Cyclist's rule #14: NEVER TALK ABOUT LUCK WITH FLATS!

Less than a mile after we parted I heard that familiar hisssssssss from Jake's rear. I was going up a slight hill & decided to walk to the crest – only to find another, albeit smaller hill looming & not a tree in sight. Now this was about noon, & the sun was blazing high in the cloudless sky & my temp gauge read 98. Jake's rear tire had a blowout in the sidewall. I could've patched that, but the rest of the tire was so cut up from all the abuse of 2500 miles of touring that I put it out of its misery & put on the spare. I also patched the tube & pumped it up & got everything back together. I was literally dripping with sweat.

And just over that next rise? A nice big farmhouse with a nice, shady front yard, not more than 300 yds from where I worked in the burningheat.

Cyclist's rule #37: ALWAYS look over the next hill.

OK, so on to Shullsburg. Well, that proved not so easy, either. The road I turned on to Shullsburg was closed ahead for construction. The closest alternate was 5 miles away, backtracking over the hills I had justlabored over.

Often, road closures are for relatively short work areas such as bridges or culverts & there's usually a way to walk around them.

Not today.

When I hit the construction area about a mile later, the whole road was torn up for (I was to learn later) realignment of two curves. I couldn't see how far the work went on, but I did notice that all the dozers & graders were parked & there wasn't a pickup or worker in sight. But there were tire tracks thru the dirt & faced with the prospect of a 10+ mile detour, I sallied forth, knowing that at worst I'd have to walk in the grass berm. It was bumpy, but I made it through the 1/2 mile noworse for the wear.

I stayed in Shullsburg for 3 hrs to stay out of the sun. Ate at a little greasy spoon, refilled my water, wrote postcards, updated my blog & gotsome route maps printed at the local library.

Unlike yesterday, I knew I had some overnight options coming up. I crossed into Illinois & shortly came upon the little town of Warren. I went straight for the only motel, only to find it open, but with no cars & no one answering the bell. I resigned myself to heading about 10
miles further to a state park campground.

Less than 2 blocks past the motel I passed a nice old house with a woman sitting on the front porch & a sign out front: Noni's Bed & Breakfast. I quickly turned around & asked if she had rooms & how much? She did & it was reasonable & the deal was struck. What a find. After a shower & short trip to town for dinner, I sat on said porch & chatted with Noni, before settling into a soft four poster bed with the freshest sheets.Awwwwwww-mmmmm.

After a great & restful sleep, I woke to overcast skies & the weather radio warning of 30% chance of storms before 7am. I left anyway not wanting to lose a minute of cool, sun-free riding. Within 3 miles it started raining & by the time I made it here to the cafe in Lena, IL where I'm writing this while sitting in my rain poncho trying to stay warm. It's still raining & thundering @ 10:30 though the forecast is forsun & temps nearing 100.

Off to the next coffee shop…

Warren, IL to Polo, IL 58 miles

I was held up for 4 hours today in Lena, IL for more thunderstorms – the farmers were desparate for the rain, but I wasn't. It both made for along day & a short riding day. I did get my laundry done, though.

Nothing else very special today – I did stop shortly in Freemont, IL where Lincoln debate Douglas once, but the most notable thing about this town of 20,000 was a sizable downtown that was virtually empty. Rather spooky, actually, & I did not feel comfortable enough to leave the bikeoutside the restaurants with no street views.

The highlight of the day was the gargantuan chicken cordon bleu I had at Jack's Bar & Grill in Forreston, IL. Rather good but 3 meals worth ofeating.

In Polo, IL & looking forward to the 1st 20 miles tomorrow being on a rail trail. 115 degree heat index expected tomorrow so I really want toget my miles in early.